Paris to leave

Paris to leave

Paris to leave h1>
(Paris-6, the Musee d’Orsay) On the very first day, when we were taken to a cafe to dine, sitting at a table next to the French, took the opportunity and asked if it was possible for us to be taken to the Russian cemetery. “Ui,” answered Jacques.
And really, in three weeks we went to a small town, in the territory of which this amazing place is located, famous.
Russian cemetery of Sainte-Genevieve-des-Bois.
The translator was a Frenchman, little familiar with Russian literature, but with Russia in general. Later, an interpreter who worked with us in the main course in Paris, said that there is an amazing guide – a girl who knows the Russian cemetery very well and can tell a lot about it.
But then we had other guides, other views and other plans. But anyway, what happiness, that I was not afraid to ask such a request directly to the French, and they took us here. The leadership of the group was against this idea, but did not dare to protest. And here we are.
Gate to the cemetery of Sainte-Genevieve-des-Bois.
I walked among these graves, alone, running away from the group. So that no one interfered with being among the names of that Russia, about which we only heard – the sunken Atlantis. Among Russian names that have gone to distant history, the names of military valor, noble honor, theological thought, Russian culture and freedom of dissidents …
The Russian part of the cemetery.
And at every step the familiar names of generals of the white movement, Cadet white crosses, Cossack graves, monuments to white emigres and whiteguards …
Monuments of the civil war, which only just began to learn not from the school and institute textbooks of the “History of the USSR”, but from the recollections of contemporaries of those times – Kolchak and Wrangel, Denikin and Kornilov, Trubetskoi and Bunin, Odintsova and Khodasevich.
Princes, princesses, counts, countesses, royal families – the head is round: the Yusupovs and the Meshchersky, the Sheremetevs and the Eliseevs (the same one whose grocery store still bears his name in Moscow), Gagarins and Obolensky, Lvov and Stolypin, Galicia and Tolstye, Rodzianko and Annenkov. The color of the Russian aristocracy.
Poets, musicians, artists. How many of them …. Ivan Bunin and Shmelev, Nadezhda Teffi and Boris Zaitsev, Gaito Gazdanov and Alexei Remizov, Merezhkovsky and Zinaida Gippius, Osip Otsup, Georgy Ivanov, Albert and Margarita Benoit, Korovin and Serebryakova, Sergei Lifar (on the tombstone of which “from Kiev” is indicated) Kshesinskaya, Ryabushinsky, Tyutchev, Brokgauz, Rimsky-Korsakov … Names that later became the honor of France.
Theologians and philosophers: Metropolitan Evlogiy (Georgievsky), who founded the theological institute in Paris, continued the Russian theological tradition, along with such remarkable teachers as Father Georges Florovsky, Fr. Vasily Krivoshein, Archbishop Cassian Bezobrazov, Father Sergius Bulgakov,
Anton Kartashov is the last chief prosecutor, historian of the church and theologian, philosophers Nikolai Lossky, Vasily Zenkovsky, Frank. All of them are here – the pride of Russian philosophy and theology, according to the books of which today they study in all theological seminaries and academies, at theological and catechism faculties.
The grave of Fr. Sergius Bulgakov.
And finally, dissidents: those who fled, did not return, did not want to …
Viktor Nekrasov, Alexander Galich, Andrei Tarkovsky, Rudolph Nuriyev, Vladimir Maksimov.
Grave of A. Galich. In the Russian cemetery in Paris.
The grave of Andrei Tarkovsky and his wife Larisa. In the Russian cemetery in Paris.
Russian cemetery on the French land, which took 15 thousand of the best people of Russia of the XX century, a monument to Russia, which can only be remembered and tried to understand what it was that Russia. Such a number of Russian graves in a foreign country. Tears choked. Ancestral and unconscious of our generation is mankurts. I took with me a handful of earth – the ashes of that Russia.
For all strangers, in a foreign land. The grave of Nuriev is the only one where there are baskets with fresh flowers. Even Tarkovsky and Galich do not. And it’s not customary, they say, to wear flowers here on graves. Even the plate is “Please do not leave flowers on the graves”. In a strange monastery. with their flowers do not go.
The grave of Nuriev with a monument in the form of an oriental carpet.
The cemetery left an impression, in comparison with our graveyards, still well-groomed. Although many graves are abandoned, no one looks after them, overgrown with grass, some tombstones are moved, the paths between the graves are overgrown. Saint Genevieve repeated Russia 93 years with an amendment to Western culture.
In comparison with the brilliant center of Paris this place looked like a seedy outskirts. The cemetery was a mirror of the attitude of Soviet Russia towards That aristocratic, Russia’s mind and honor, which was no longer and never will be. Remembered the poem “Country” Marina Tsvetaeva, which spun on the mind and tongue, while walking among abandoned and groomed graves. It is like an epitaph on a huge gravestone monument of that Russia:
Obsharite with a lantern.
The whole sublunary light!
The country on the map –
No, in space – no.
Drunk out like a saucer, –
Is it possible to return.
In a house that is – unearthed?
The one where on coins –
That Russia – no.
(End of June 1931)
Today’s cemetery on fresh pictures of the new Russian is very well-groomed: everything is cleaned, painted, flowers do not bother anyone and the tablets are not visible, lamps are burning and many Russian tourists, all the paths are strewn with gravel, no looted graves. Times are different.
In 2008, Putin came here, the Russian government allocated funds to pay off debts for overdue land leases and apparently made considerable efforts to put in order Saint Genevieve.
In 1993 I found another cemetery – with old, overgrown and abandoned graves. Some of them are restored, but not enough. Catholic cemeteries crowd out the Orthodox and make up half of the cemetery. This part is very different from the Russian Orthodox. H.
There are buried local residents and residents of nearby cities and towns, and they are not always Orthodox and it can be seen: no flowers, icons and lamps, no birches and fir-trees. Uninhabited and treeless, lifeless, emphasizing the mortality of the deceased. The Orthodox part is alive, with living trees and live bushes, with fresh flowers and grace.
She bowed to all who bore Russia and did not change her inside, although they lived long after emigration (to 80-90 years). Unfortunately, their children are no longer Russian, and many already do not want them to be considered Russian. The guide is French, knows nothing about the cemetery. To my question: “Where is the grave of Gippius?”, Answered the question: “Who is this?”.
In the cemetery is a very beautiful and simple chapel, built according to the drawings of Albert Benois, in the Russian style of Pskov architecture of the 14th and 15th centuries – white and clean. She signed them, together with his wife Margarita, both buried here. But when we were, the chapel was closed.
Chapel of the Assumption of Our Lady. Russian cemetery in Paris.
While I was wandering among the graves, the whole group was already sitting at the cemetery for a long time, scolded me and was surprised that I could do so for a long time in the cemetery. No one was interested that it was not just a cemetery. But for Soviet Russia and Soviet people, the buried here were also strangers.
Small church, candles shedding,
The stone is ragged by the rain.
Here are buried former, former,
Here are buried dreams and prayers,
Tears and valor, goodbye and cheers,
Headquarters and midshipmen,
Hvat-colonels and cadets.
White Guard, white flock,
White army, white bone.
Wet slabs are overgrown with grass.
Russian letters are French pogost.
I touch the history with my palm,
I’m going through the civil war.
Oh, how I longed for them in the capital.
To drive once on a white horse.
Oh, how I longed for them in the capital.
To drive once on a white horse.
There was no glory – there was no home,
The heart is gone, and the memory is alive.
Your excellencies, their honor.
Together at Sainte-Genevieve-des-Bois.
They are densely lying, they who have known plenty.
Your torments and your roads.
Still, the Russians, after all, are ours,
Only they are not ours, but draws.
As they are after the forgotten ex,
All cursing, and now, and henceforth,
They tried to look at her victorious,
Let the incomprehensible, though not forgiven.
The earth is born and die.
Noon. Birch echo of rest.
In the sky Russian domes.
And the clouds, like white horses,
Rushing over Sainte-Genevieve-des-Bois.
And the clouds, like white horses,
Rushing over Sainte-Genevieve-des-Bois.
Today is the 21st of March. In France – the first day of spring. Something is happening in our politics. Yeltsin decided to go all-in. It is difficult to judge from afar what is happening. The language barrier here is the most painful.
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27 Responses to Paris-7. Russian cemetery of Saint Genevieve de Bois.
Well, not many, although there were such. The destinies of all were different, someone to the end of days regretted about their emigration, someone returned, and someone did not accept a new Russia. But they are Russians and they saved for us that Russia, which for us was a closed and taboo subject. Sorry, very sorry, because we have lost much from such prohibitions, both culturally and morally.
And many of them prayers were ordered for the victory of Hitler & # 8230 ;.
Thanks for that. About a month ago, a woman asked me to help her find the grave allegedly buried at Sainte-Genevieve-de-Bois. I recommended this book to her. I found it on the Internet, but you can download it, as I understand it, for a fee. But anyway, who really needs, he will find and pay.
It turns out that the second, Moscow edition of II. Grezina “Alphabetical list of Russian graves in the cemetery of Sainte-Genevieve-des-Bois” (in the series “The Russian Necropolis.” Issue 9 / Edited by AA Shumkov. “M .:” Old Basmannaya “, 2009 ). In this supplemented edition of 568 pages, about 10,000 surnames.
Thanks for the help. This will help those who are looking for graves.
At the cemetery there is a local Russian Guardianship Committee. Its coordinates are nowhere to be found. But the member of this committee is the church head of the Church of the Assumption of the Mother of God Tatyana Nikolaevna Shomshova (speaking in Russian with a French accent). The phone number is on the church website. The church is in the jurisdiction of the Patriarchate of Constantinople. Tatyana Nikolaevna can help in finding related graves, laying flowers, etc. But it must be borne in mind that, in the presence of “French” heirs of the deceased, according to French laws some actions require their consent. At the same time, not all the descendants of white emigrants are seeking close contact with us. They look at history differently and remember that their ancestors were a loser and were forced to leave Russia. But they will in any case be polite to talk to you.
And where Gorodnitsky? Let me remind you of this wonderful poem to my readers:
At the cemetery of Sainte-Genevieve-des-Bois.
Oblivion does not grow grass, –
Her, dressed like a lover,
Regular gardener cuts.
At the cemetery of Sainte-Genevieve-des-Bois.
Where the statues get cold in the fox boa.
Emigrants have found peace, –
Russian freedom guarantors.
At the cemetery of Sainte-Genevieve-des-Bois.
The earth from February snow is white,
And they look at the black crowns,
Forgetting about the horses, the squadrons.
It rings at the monastery of Saint Genevieve.
Skvortsov arrived disyllabic melody,
Binding her singing bird.
With Donskoy or Novo-Devichy.
Again in anticipation of a new spring.
The deceased dreams of Moscow dreams,
Where the blizzard is spinning twisted,
Cast crosses flying around.
Familiar since childhood, native places,
And the dome shines over the temple of Christ,
Bowing the dead to hope,
That everything will return as before.
At the cemetery of Sainte-Genevieve-des-Bois,
Disappearing from the planet like a moa bird,
There is a swan flock,
In the Parisian land, it is hard.
Between the marble angels and the Terpsichore.
The invisible choir sings to them,
And no, it is clear from the singing,
Freedom apart from the ease.
I want to finish the story about this cemetery with lines of A. Gorodnitsky, written in 1996.
As far as I know, now the cemetery is taken under the patronage of the Russian president and is in a good condition. Not at all in what I found him in 1993. So it does not need charity. Thank God.
Good afternoon! Does the cemetery have an official website and an account for charity? Though who as much can. Very offensive for Russia.
You, of course, have the Patriarch in treasurers. I do not know anything about his wealth or shortage. It’s funny and bitter at the same time that you lament over the loss of cults with such a poorly cultured language & # 8212; and in form, and in content & # 8230;
I will try to find. I have no such plan.
Be kind, publish the plan of the cemetery with the grave of Galich. Yesterday we returned to Russia from Paris. 3 hours looking for the grave of Galich and not found. According to the plan next to Nuriev. In a month we’ll go again. I would like to have a plan. Thanks in advance. Elena and Irina.
You are right, I was at the Russian cemetery for a long time. in 1993, but thought that the cemetery was put in order. But, judging by your words, not all so. We are not a decree to the Patriarch. Everyone, I think, knows who and how much to help. And what is happening with the historical memory and monuments of culture in our country, there is something to talk about. Unfortunately, with the culture we have napryazhenka. And this is no less disgusting than what you write about.
The last shock is the abandoned grave of I. Bunin with a trifle in the currencies of different countries and a sagging cross from Felix Yusupov. In his palaces, the fifth generation of cattle and frolics continue to frolic. Mr. Gundyaev, in our opinion, should allocate funds from his untold wealth as an Orthodox Christian. There is no hope for this and everything is disgusting.
You mean to write in a comment? Try it. I will wait.
Tina, I still can not send e-mail “# 8212; can I write to your page & # 8212; ? I have a theme & # 8212; temples of monasteries & # 8212; there is no philosophical reasoning. & # 8212; In short, I’m simple as a nickle! A small article, “The Great Land of Russia,” # 8212; the edge is mine mine! I have lived in the Arctic for a long time and I really love this land.
Yes, this is her pseudonym. Fotinia, and you send something of your own. I’ll take a look and post it if I like it.
Hellen Light & # 8212; is this her pseudonym? Your right to whom to post! And I can not reach your level! So at the moment I’m your faithful reader!
No, there will be no continuation. I do not like much in her texts from the aesthetic point of view, although her attitude to faith is clear. She asks me to place her poems along with her story about her churching, but her poetry is weak. And I do not want to litter a blog.
The computer is slowly mastering Before independent work it’s still far away What’s going on # 8212; something interesting on your blog I think to put & # 8212; if you do not mind ! New author & # 8212; Hellen Light _ is there any continuation I would like to finish reading! Tina I like your blog and YOU myself are very cute! You rarely meet such an understanding in matters of faith and in life situations!
The clergy are scanty! Absolutely agree, but we will be patient. I learned to stay away from this, just took it as it is. It is still useless to fight, and you will do much more harm to yourself. But to do business in your place and what you can do? it is more useful to people and their soul. And there & # 8212; as God wills.
Fotinia, you did not answer me to the question: Do you make your blog or just write articles? How does the computer work?
Tina! Not all people think like us & # 8212; idealists are now all material in the first place! Our clergy have become scanty! Everyone will be judged by OH & # 8212; all will receive according to their deeds!
I agree completely. Then they left Russia as refugees from Syria, Armenia, Abkhazia, and then began to leave, so that they could live more expansively and richer. It’s all different motivations. They retained that Russia, and the current new Russians only dishonor Russia.
For modern youth, the Motherland is where you can live normally “. raise children and not be afraid for the future! And our Motherland Russia is unpredictable! Who really loved Russia & # 8212; love pure and bright & 8212; lie there in the Russian cemetery in Paris!
Natalia, I, while doing the text, roared like a beluga. Five times he listened to Malinin and every time with tears in his eyes. Yes, for the power it is insulting. We do not know how to appreciate people, we are scattered left and right, as if there really are no irreplaceable ones. There is. It’s the same people, just irreplaceable. So they stayed with what they had left. Very sorry! And now this stream from Russia does not end: young people dream of leaving.
Thanks for the post! I could not hold back tears and cried, looking through it. It’s insulting VERY for the POWER, for NATION & # 8230; THANKS FOR MEMORY!


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